Teach by Mia Silverio, makeup artist at the Paul Labrecque Salon and Spa.
When it comes to doing our makeup we all have the same goal: to make our eyes look brighter, bigger, and more awake. Now let’s learn from Mia Silverio how to highlight, shade, and line our eyes—all shapes and sizes.
If you have round eyes like Katy Perry, start by applying eyeliner from the inner corners of your eyes all the way to the outside ending in a straight line or small cat eye. Then highlight below the brow bone and the inner corners of your eye with a light eye shadow. To show contrast between the highlighted parts of the eye, take a medium eye shadow color and lightly apply it above your lid. Finally, thickly apply a darker color shadow along the crease of your eye, without going too overboard. Blend the shadow from the outside going towards the middle of the eye in order to give more shape to your lid. Voila! The perfect shadowed, doe-eye look à la Katy.
Almond Shaped Eyes
It’s no surprise that Beyoncé has the ideal eye shape—is there anyone more gorgeous? Almond eyes are the most symmetrical—just the effect you’re trying to create with your makeup. If you have almond eyes, you should use the round eye application technique, just mimic the shape of your own eye. Queen Bey FTW, always.
Downturned eyes like Camilla Belle’s need a little lift, so your eyeliner will play the most important role. Start by using your shadow to highlight and shade the same way you would for a round or almond shaped eye—the difference is your eyeliner should be much heavier. After applying the shadow, swipe on your eyeliner starting at the inner corners and extending all the way to the outside. The trick here is to give it a curve up at the end like a smiley face or a cat eye if you want something a bit more dramatic.
Deep Set Eyes
For deep-set eyes like Keira Knightley’s, use the same application techniques as you would for a round eye, but apply the dark shadow very lightly. You want to accentuate the highlighted parts of the eye to give the illusion of roundness, but not overpower it with dark shadow.
Close Set Eyes
To make close-set eyes like Kristen Bell’s appear wider apart, start by highlighting below your brow bone and inner lid the same as you would for round eyes—what’s different here is the base shadow. Use a medium color and shade a little farther out than the width of the eye in a wide round shape. Then, take the darker color and shade from the outside on top of the crease to give it more contrast. Start your eyeliner at the middle of the lid and extend it out further than your eye in a straight line.
Hooded eyes like Selena Gomez’s have an extra layer of skin below the brow that covers the crease and makes the lid seem smaller. They don’t need much highlighting, so start with your light shadow only on the inner corners of your eyes. Then apply a good amount of the medium color to the hooded lid. Go heavy with the dark shade around the crease to give the illusion of a rounder eye and extend your eyeliner further out in order to balance the look. The effect: an envy-inducing gaze worthy of any ex-Disney princess.
A monolid eye goes straight from the brow to the eye with no crease. Similar to a hooded eye, you want to apply shadow to make the eye appear bigger and more open. First, exaggerate the highlighting in the inner corners of your eye, going up and out to the center of the eye. Then take your medium color and go above the crease from the outside of the eye creating a round shape. The dark shade should be used in the same motion very lightly to define the shape, but don’t go further in than the center of the eye. When applying liner, keep a steady hand and do a very thin line that gets a bit thicker on the outside.
If you have protruding eyes like Nicole Richie’s you do not need any highlighting on the bottom lid or inner corners of your eye, just very lightly under the brow bone. Like the hooded eye, you should heavily shade with your medium color. But instead of just applying above the crease, go heavy under the crease as well. Most importantly, apply heavy eyeliner from the inner corners of your eye to the outside with just a straight line. Don’t be afraid to apply it on thick. The darkness right on the lid will downplay the protruding factor.